Used steel sash windows

F or over a century now, steel window frames have been in high demand by designers and architects building both commercial and residential properties.

Steel is versatile, lightweight and low maintenance, and provides adequate thermal resistance as well as exudes an effortless inclination to light. However, there are 3 main features that have caused steel to be chosen over aluminum and wood, and these include durability, strength and aesthetic appeal.

The welding process used in steel window frames augments its strength thus providing unrivaled security, while hot-dip galvanization, painting and polyester powder coating increase the durability of the frame by preventing rust. But the beauty of steel window frames is definitely the reason that these windows are a worthwhile investment.

They comprise of slender lines which exude elegance, charm and style, while remaining exceptionally functional. It is with all of this in mind that we will look at the main steel window frames types, as we try and understand the place of steel in window frames. The steel window frames outlined below are designed to hold both large and small glass panels, regardless of the weight of the sheet of glass. This window frame can be side-hung, top-hung or bottom hung or a combination , therefore allowing the window to be opened from different directions.

They are currently the most sought after steel window frame type, due to their slim mullions and classic design and construction. Furthermore, they provide the greatest amount of air inflow and outflow, and can be found in many renovated and upcoming residential buildings. Casement windows can be left-handed, right-handed or double-handed, depending on the direction of the swing. Hopper steel window frames are a casement window type which opens inwards.

They are bottom hinged and this allows them to pivot vertically, and they are often found in small spaces. You are very likely to see hopper steel window frames in a basement, apartment complex or a school.

Awning steel window frames are very similar to their hopper counterparts; the difference is that the hinges are located at the top of the frame. This casement window type therefore pivots vertically and outwards, imitating an awning.

French casement steel window frames lack a center mullion, therefore providing a clear view. Inspiration for a mid-sized industrial wooden u-shaped open and glass railing staircase remodel in Austin. Asnes Kitchen - industrial galley kitchen idea in New York with concrete countertops, stainless steel appliances, a double-bowl sink, flat-panel cabinets and white cabinets.

Industrial Kitchen. Urban kitchen photo in Other with stainless steel appliances. Industrial Exterior. Urban two-story brick townhouse exterior photo in London.

The addition is a two story space evoking the typology of an orangery - a glass enclosed structure used as a conservatory, common in England where the owners have lived. Evan Thomas Photography. Rustic Kitchen. Example of a mountain style kitchen design in Burlington with stainless steel appliances, a farmhouse sink, granite countertops, shaker cabinets, beige cabinets and beige backsplash. Master Bedroom. Custom steel windows are set between a frame of antique timbers, creating a pavillion like experience in this modernist addition to a 's era Spanish Revival residence in Homewood, Alabama.

The top living level is completely open plan, with spaces defined by the reclaimed roof trusses - simply raised up from the original roof. Photo: Peter Bennetts.

Homerton Warehouse. Interior Design - Trunk Creative Example of a small urban u-shaped kitchen design in London with a double-bowl sink, flat-panel cabinets, stainless steel cabinets, concrete countertops, white backsplash, subway tile backsplash, stainless steel appliances and no island. This steel-based epoxy is available for industrial steel repair; it can also be found in auto body patching compounds or in plumber's epoxy. As with any product, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and best results.

The traditional patching technique—melting steel welding rods to fill holes in the metal sections—may be difficult to apply in some situations; moreover, the window glass must be removed during the repair process, or it will crack from the expansion of the heated metal sections.

After these repairs, glass replacement, hinge lubrication, painting, and other cosmetic repairs can be undertaken as necessary. To complete the checklist for routine maintenance, cracked glass, deteriorated glazing compound, missing screws, and broken fasteners will have to be replaced; hinges cleaned and lubricated; the metal windows painted, and the masonry surrounds caulked.

If the glazing must be replaced, all clips, glazing beads, and other fasteners that hold the glass to the sash should be retained, if possible, although replacements for these parts are still being fabricated.

When bedding glass, use only glazing compound formulated for metal windows. To clean the hinges generally brass or bronze , a cleaning solvent and fine bronze wool should be used. The hinges should then be lubricated with a non-greasy lubricant specially formulated for metals and with an anticorrosive agent. These lubricants are available in a spray form and should be used periodically on frequently opened windows.

Final painting of the windows with a paint compatible with the anticorrosive primer should proceed on a dry day. Paint and primer from the same manufacturer should be used. Two coats of finish paint are recommended if the sections have been cleaned to bare metal.

The paint should overlap the glass slightly to insure weathertightness at that connection. Once the paint dries thoroughly, a flexible exterior caulk can be applied to eliminate air and moisture infiltration where the window and the surrounding masonry meet. Caulking is generally undertaken after the windows have received at least one coat of finish paint. The perimeter of the masonry surround should be caulked with a flexible elastomeric compound that will adhere well to both metal and masonry.

The caulking used should be a type intended for exterior application, have a high tolerance for material movement, be resistant to ultraviolet light, and have a minimum durability of 10 years. Three effective compounds taking price and other factors into consideration are polyurethane, vinyl acrylic, and butyl rubber.

In selecting a caulking material for a window retrofit, it is important to remember that the caulking compound may be covering other materials in a substrate. In this case, some compounds, such as silicone, may not adhere well.

Almost all modern caulking compounds can be painted after curing completely. Many come in a range of colors, which eliminates the need to paint. If colored caulking is used, the windows should have been given two coats of finish paint prior to caulking. Damage to windows may be so severe that the window sash and sometimes the frame must be removed for cleaning and extensive rust removal, straightening of bent sections, welding or splicing in of new sections, and reglazing.

These major and expensive repairs are reserved for highly significant windows that cannot be replaced; the procedures involved should be carried out only by skilled workmen. As part of the orderly removal of windows, each window should be numbered and the parts labeled. The operable metal sash should be dismantled by removing the hinges; the fixed sash and, if necessary, the frame can then be unbolted or unscrewed.

The subframe is usually left in place. Built into the masonry surrounds, it can only be cut out with a torch. Hardware and hinges should be labeled and stored together. The two major choices for removing flaking paint and corrosion from severely deteriorated windows are dipping in a chemical bath or sandblasting.

Both treatments require removal of the glass. If the windows are to be dipped, a phosphoric acid solution is preferred, as mentioned earlier. While the dip tank method is good for fairly evenly distributed rust, deep set rust may remain after dipping. For that reason, sandblasting is more effective for heavy and uneven corrosion. Both methods leave the metal sections clean of residual paint.

As already noted, after cleaning has exposed the metal to the air, it should be primed immediately after drying with an anticorrosive primer to prevent rust from recurring. Sections that are seriously bent or bowed must be straightened with heat and applied pressure in a workshop. Structurally weakened sections must be cut out, generally with an oxyacetylene torch, and replaced with sections welded in place and the welds ground smooth.

Finding replacement metal sections, however, may be difficult. While most rolling mills are producing modern sections suitable for total replacement, it may be difficult to find an exact profile match for a splicing repair. The best source of rolled metal sections is from salvaged windows, preferably from the same building. If no salvaged windows are available, two options remain. Either an ornamental metal fabricator can weld flat plates into a built-up section, or a steel plant can mill bar steel into the desired profile.

While the sash and frame are removed for repair, the subframe and masonry surrounds should be inspected. This is also the time to reset sills or to remove corrosion from the subframe, taking care to protect the masonry surrounds from damage.

Missing or broken hardware and hinges should be replaced on all windows that will be operable. Salvaged windows, again, are the best source of replacement parts.

If matching parts cannot be found, it may be possible to adapt ready-made items. Such a substitution may require filling existing holes with steel epoxy or with plug welds and tapping in new screw holes. However, if the hardware is a highly significant element of the historic window, it may be worth having reproductions made.

Historic metal windows are generally not energy efficient; this has often led to their wholesale replacement. Metal windows can, however, be made more energy efficient in several ways, varying in complexity and cost. Caulking around the masonry openings and adding weatherstripping, for example, can be do-it-yourself projects and are important first steps in reducing air infiltration around the windows. They usually have a rapid payback period.

Other treatments include applying fixed layers of glazing over the historic windows, adding operable storm windows, or installing thermal glass in place of the existing glass. In combination with caulking and weatherstripping, these treatments can produce energy ratings rivaling those achieved by new units. The first step in any weatherization program, caulking, has been discussed above under "Routine Maintenance. Four types of weatherstripping appropriate for metal windows are spring-metal, vinyl strips, compressible foam tapes, and sealant beads.

The spring-metal, with an integral friction fit mounting clip, is recommended for steel windows in good condition. The clip eliminates the need for an applied glue; the thinness of the material insures a tight closure. The weatherstripping is clipped to the inside channel of the rolled metal section of the fixed frame. To insure against galvanic corrosion between the weatherstripping often bronze or brass , and the steel window, the window must be painted prior to the installation of the weatherstripping.

This weatherstripping is usually applied to the entire perimeter of the window opening, but in some cases, such as casement windows, it may be best to avoid weatherstripping the hinge side.

The natural wedging action of the weatherstripping on the three sides of the window often creates an adequate seal. Vinyl weatherstripping can also be applied to metal windows. Folded into a "V" configuration, the material forms a barrier against the wind. Vinyl weatherstripping is usually glued to the frame, although some brands have an adhesive backing.

As the vinyl material and the applied glue are relatively thick, this form of weatherstripping may not be appropriate for all situations. Compressible foam tape weatherstripping is often best for large windows where there is a slight bending or distortion of the sash. In some very tall windows having closure hardware at the sash midpoint, the thin sections of the metal window will bow away from the frame near the top. If the gap exceeds this, the window may need to be realigned to close more tightly.

The foam weatherstripping comes either with an adhesive or plain back; the latter variety requires application with glue. View fullsize Single casement, operable transom. View fullsize Single casement, fixed side lights, fixed transom. View fullsize Single casement, fixed transom, diamond leaded glass. View fullsize Double casement, diamond leaded glass. View fullsize Single casement, fixed side light.

View fullsize Fixed cathedral top, diamond leaded glass.